Peroxide strengths explained: the complete guide to choosing 5, 10, 20, 30 or 40 volume developer

Lime Light Hair & Beauty · 25 September 2026 · 16 min read

A practical guide for South African salons, colourists and students, covering levels, lift, bleach, bond builders, tools and aftercare, with the peroxides we stock from Dikson, Exclusively Yours, Nouvelle, Toujours, Wella and KADUS.

💡 The quick answer

20 vol (6%) is the everyday choice for grey coverage and up to two levels of lift.

10 vol (3%) for toners, tone-on-tone and going darker. 5 vol (1.5%) for the gentlest toning.

30 vol (9%) for two to three levels of lift, or bleach off the scalp.

40 vol (12%) only with high-lift tints, never with bleach on the scalp.

Always follow the mixing ratio on the colour or bleach you are using.

What is peroxide in hair colour?

Peroxide, also called developer, oxidant or cream emulsion, is hydrogen peroxide in a stable cream or liquid base. It is the activator you mix with permanent colour or bleach. On its own a tube of tint does nothing; the developer is what makes it work.

When you mix the two, the peroxide does two jobs at once:

It lightens the natural pigment in the hair, which is what gives you lift.
It develops the colour molecules so they grow inside the hair shaft and stay there, which is what makes permanent colour permanent.

The stronger the peroxide, the more lightening power it has. That is why choosing the right strength matters as much as choosing the right shade.

What does "volume" mean on a peroxide bottle?

Volume tells you how much oxygen the developer can release. A 20 volume peroxide releases 20 times its own volume in oxygen. The percentage on the bottle is the same thing said differently: it is the concentration of hydrogen peroxide.

Volume	Strength	Typical lift	Best used for
5 vol	1.5%	None (deposit only)	Toning, glossing, very porous or fragile hair
10 vol	3%	Up to 1 level	Tone-on-tone, going darker, toners, sensitive scalps
20 vol	6%	1 to 2 levels	Grey coverage, standard permanent colour, on-scalp bleach
30 vol	9%	2 to 3 levels	Lightening with tint, off-scalp bleach
40 vol	12%	3 to 4 levels	High-lift tint series only

Infographic: peroxide strength scale from 5 vol (1.5%) to 40 vol (12%) with lift levels — *Each step up in volume adds roughly one level of lift.*

How do I work out how many levels of lift I need?

Every developer choice starts with two numbers: the client's natural level (or current colour) and the target level. Hair is graded from 1 (black) to 10 (lightest blonde). The gap between the two is the lift you need.

Hair level scale from 1 black to 10 lightest blonde, with an example of lifting from level 5 to level 7 — *The level scale used by every professional colour brand.*

How do I read a hair colour shade number?

Professional shade numbers follow the same logic across brands:

The number before the dot is the level. 5.0 is a level 5 light brown; 7.0 is a level 7 blonde.
The numbers after the dot are the tone. 0 is natural, 1 is ash, 3 is gold, 4 is copper, 6 is red. A doubled number, like 00 or 66, means a more intense version of that tone.
N shades (such as 4N) are natural bases, built for grey coverage.

Dikson Color Extra 120ml in shades 5.0 Light Brown, 6.00 Dark Blonde Extra and 7.0 Blonde — *Dikson Color Extra 120ml: 5.0, 6.00 Extra and 7.0. Mix with Dikson OXY.*

Nouvelle Cream Color 4N, 90.01 and Grey — *Nouvelle Cream Color 100ml (left) and Toujours Cream Color 100ml (right). Mix each with its own cream peroxide.*

Toujours Cream Color 4N and 11.20 high lift — *Nouvelle Cream Color 100ml (left) and Toujours Cream Color 100ml (right). Mix each with its own cream peroxide.*

Worked examples: picking the developer

Client	Natural / current	Target	Lift	Developer
Covering 50% grey, same depth	Level 6 with grey	Level 6 natural	None	20 vol
Going darker for winter	Level 7	Level 5	None (deposit)	10 vol
Brighter, warmer brunette	Level 5	Level 6 gold	1 level	20 vol
Noticeably lighter	Level 5	Level 7	2 levels	30 vol
Toning pre-lightened blonde	Level 9 yellow	Level 9 pearl	None	5 or 10 vol
Light blonde from a mid base	Level 6	Level 9 to 10	3 to 4 levels	High-lift series with 30 or 40 vol, or bleach and tone

XY Tint 100ml in 1.0 Black, 3.0 Dark Brown and 6.0 Dark Blonde with hair swatches — *XY Tint 100ml with swatches: 1.0, 3.0 and 6.0. Pair with Exclusively Yours Peroxide.*

Which developer strength should I use?

Start with the result you want, then pick the lowest strength that will get you there. Lower strength means less damage, a more comfortable scalp and truer tone.

Decision chart: which developer strength to use for toning, grey coverage, lift and bleach

When should I use 5 vol or 10 vol peroxide?

Use 5 vol (1.5%) or 10 vol (3%) when you want colour to deposit without lifting. Typical jobs:

Toning pre-lightened hair to neutralise yellow or orange
Going darker, or refreshing faded ends
Tone-on-tone colour on the same level
Clients with a sensitive scalp or hair that is already compromised

From our range: Dikson OXY 5 vol and 10 vol, Exclusively Yours 5 vol and 10 vol, Nouvelle 5 vol and 10 vol, and Toujours Oxi 10 vol.

When should I use 20 vol peroxide?

20 vol (6%) is the workhorse of every colour bar and the strength most salons buy most of. Use it for:

Full grey coverage, where you need the cuticle to open enough for colour to grip
Lifting one to two levels with a permanent tint
Bleach applied on the scalp, where lower strength protects the client

From our range: Dikson OXY 20 vol, Dikson EVERYGreen Cream Peroxide 20 vol, Exclusively Yours 20 vol, Nouvelle 20 vol and Toujours Oxi 20 vol.

Exclusively Yours Peroxide 20 Vol 6% 1L — *Exclusively Yours Peroxide 20 Vol 1L (left) and Dikson EVERYGreen Cream Peroxide 20 vol 1000ml (right).*

*Exclusively Yours Peroxide 20 Vol 1L (left) and Dikson EVERYGreen Cream Peroxide 20 vol 1000ml (right).*

When should I use 30 vol peroxide?

30 vol (9%) gives two to three levels of lift. Use it when the client wants to go noticeably lighter with tint, or with bleach in foils, balayage or other techniques that keep the product off the scalp.

From our range: Dikson OXY 30 vol, Exclusively Yours 30 vol, Nouvelle 30 vol and Toujours Oxi 30 vol.

When should I use 40 vol peroxide?

40 vol (12%) is the strongest developer in everyday salon use. It is made for high-lift blonde tints that are designed to be mixed with it, and it gives three to four levels of lift.

⚠ Use 40 vol with care

Never use 40 vol with bleach on the scalp. It can irritate or burn the skin.

Do not use it to "speed up" a colour. Higher strength does not mean faster processing, it means more damage.

Only use it when the colour manufacturer specifies it.

From our range: Dikson OXY 40 vol, Exclusively Yours 40 vol, Nouvelle 40 vol and Toujours Oxi 40 vol.

What about high-lift and special blonde colours?

High-lift shades, such as Toujours 11.20 or Nouvelle 90.01, are built to lift natural hair three to four levels and tone it in one step. They usually call for 30 or 40 vol and often a higher ratio of developer, such as 1:2. They work best on natural, uncoloured hair at level 6 or lighter. They will not lift old tint; for that you need bleach.

Which peroxide should I use with bleach?

Bleach (lightening powder) does most of the lifting itself, so it rarely needs the strongest developer. Most bleaches mix at 1 part powder to 2 parts developer; check the pack.

Technique	Recommended developer	Why
On-scalp bleach (roots, full head)	10 to 20 vol	Body heat speeds the bleach up; lower strength protects the scalp
Foils and meshes	20 to 30 vol	Product stays off the scalp; foil holds the heat
Balayage and open-air techniques	20 to 30 vol	Bleach dries faster in the open, so it needs a little more strength
Very dark or resistant hair	30 vol, off the scalp	Lift slowly and safely rather than reaching for 40 vol

Bleach powders: Dikson Blu Hade 7T, DIKSOBlonde 9T, Exclusively Yours Bleach Powder Blue and Nouvelle Color Effective Deco 9 — *Bleaches we stock: Dikson Blu Hade (up to 7 tones), DIKSOBlonde (up to 9 tones), Exclusively Yours Bleach Powder Blue and Nouvelle Color Effective Blonde Deco 9.*

💡 Pair it right

Dikson Blu Hade and DIKSOBlonde work hand in hand with Dikson OXY. Nouvelle Decoflash and Deco 9 pair with Nouvelle Cream Peroxide. Exclusively Yours Bleach Powder pairs with Exclusively Yours Peroxide.

What are bond-building lighteners?

Bond builders protect the internal structure of the hair while it lightens, so you can lift further with less breakage. They are worth the premium on fine, previously coloured or very dark hair.

KADUS LIGHTPLEX No.1 and No.2, Wella BLONDOR Multi Blonde and BLONDOR Freelights lightening powders — *KADUS LIGHTPLEX No.1 Bond Lightening Powder and No.2 Bond Completion, Wella BLONDOR Multi Blonde and BLONDOR Freelights.*

KADUS LIGHTPLEX: No.1 is the bond lightening powder, mixed with KADUS developer; No.2 is the in-salon bond completion treatment.
Wella BLONDOR: Multi Blonde for on- and off-scalp work, Freelights for freehand and open-air lightening. Pair with Welloxon Perfect.

Can I mix two peroxide strengths together?

Yes. Mixing equal parts of two strengths gives you the strength in between. It is a handy fix when you run out of one volume mid-service.

Infographic: 20 vol plus 40 vol in equal parts equals 30 vol

20 vol + 40 vol = 30 vol
10 vol + 30 vol = 20 vol
Mix the same brand, cream with cream, and measure with a scale or measuring bottle

What do I need for a colour service?

Good tools make measuring accurate and application clean. This is the kit every colour station should have, all available from Lime Light:

Colour service kit: tint bowls, tint brushes, pin-tail brush, brush and comb, applicator bottle, tube squeezer, highlighting and balayage boards, gloves, colour cape, apron and salon foil — *From top left: tint bowl trio, large tint brush, pin-tail brush, brush and comb, applicator bottle, tube squeezer, highlighting board, balayage board, gloves, cape, apron and salon foil.*

Non-metal bowls and brushes: metal can react with peroxide and change the result.
Applicator bottles: for root touch-ups and clear or liquid developers.
Gloves, every time: peroxide and tint irritate the skin.
Foil and boards: for highlights and balayage, keeping lightener off the scalp so you can safely use 20 to 30 vol.

XY Professional Salon Foil and Sparkle Salon Foil boxes — *XY Professional Salon Foil 100m x 120mm and Sparkle Silver Salon Foil.*

How do I mix colour and developer correctly?

XY permanent hair colour tube and box — *Measure the tint, add developer, mix to a smooth cream, then apply with a tint brush.*

Tint brush for mixing and applying colour — *Measure the tint, add developer, mix to a smooth cream, then apply with a tint brush.*

Check the ratio on the colour box. Common ratios are 1:1, 1:1.5 and 1:2.
Weigh or measure both the colour and the developer. Guessing changes the result.
Mix in a non-metal bowl until smooth, with no lumps of colour left.
Apply straight away. Mixed colour starts working immediately and cannot be stored.
Time it according to the manufacturer, not by eye.

⚠ Always do a skin allergy test

Do a patch test 48 hours before every colour service, even for regular clients. Formulas and sensitivities change.

What are 1.9%, 4% and 27 vol developers for?

Not every developer follows the 10, 20, 30, 40 pattern. Some are made for one specific colour line:

Wella Color Touch Emulsion 1.9%, KADUS Demi-Permanent Developer 1.9%, Wella Welloxon Perfect 6% and Nouvelle Espressotime 27 vol developer

Developer	Strength	What it is for
Wella Color Touch Emulsion	1.9% and 4%	Wella Color Touch demi-permanent: gloss, tone and blend grey without lift
KADUS Demi-Permanent Developer	1.9% and 4%	KADUS demi-permanent colour: soft, low-commitment results
Wella Welloxon Perfect	1.9% to 12% (6 to 40 vol)	Wella Koleston Perfect permanent colour, including the in-between 4% (13 vol)
Nouvelle Espressotime Developer	27 vol (8%)	Nouvelle Espressotime, the 10-minute permanent colour system; use no other developer

💡 Demi-permanent in one line

Low-strength developers (1.9% to 4%) let colour sit on and just under the cuticle. The result fades gradually with no hard regrowth line, which makes it ideal for first-time colour clients and toning.

Cream peroxide or clear peroxide: what is the difference?

	Cream peroxide	Clear (liquid) peroxide
Texture	Thick and creamy	Thin and runny
Best for	Tint and bleach, mixed in a bowl and applied with a brush	Applicator-bottle colour and some toners
Why salons choose it	Stays where you put it, no drips, mixes smoothly	Flows easily through a nozzle

Almost all salon colour today is mixed with cream peroxide, which is why all of the peroxides on our website are cream developers.

Which peroxide brands does Lime Light stock?

We stock a peroxide for every colour system and budget, in full strength ranges. All are available to salons on limelighthb.co.za and at our showrooms.

Brand	Strengths	Size	Pairs best with
Dikson OXY Cream Peroxide (Italy)	5, 10, 20, 30, 40 vol	980ml	Dikson Color Extra, Blu Hade and DIKSOBlonde bleach
Dikson EVERYGreen Cream Peroxide	20 vol	1000ml	Dikson EVERYGreen colour
Exclusively Yours Peroxide	5, 10, 20, 30, 40 vol	1L	Exclusively Yours bleach and XY colour
Nouvelle Cream Peroxide (Italy)	5, 10, 20, 30, 40 vol	1L	Nouvelle colour, Decoflash and Deco 9 bleach
Nouvelle Espressotime Developer	27 vol (8%)	1000ml	Nouvelle Espressotime 10-minute colour
Toujours Oxi Cream Peroxide	10, 20, 30, 40 vol	1L	Toujours colour
Wella Welloxon Perfect	6, 13, 20, 30, 40 vol	1000ml	Wella Koleston Perfect
Wella Color Touch Emulsion	1.9% and 4%	1000ml	Wella Color Touch demi-permanent
KADUS Developers	1.9% and 4% demi, 6%, 9% and 12% permanent	1000ml	KADUS colour and Lightplex

Exclusively Yours Peroxide

Nouvelle Cream Peroxide

Nouvelle Color Effective Cream Peroxide 5, 10, 20, 30 and 40 Vol, 1 litre bottles — *Nouvelle Color Effective Cream Peroxide, 1L, from 5 to 40 vol.*

Toujours Oxi Cream Peroxide

Do I have to use the same brand of peroxide as my colour?

It is the safest choice. Each colour brand is tested with its own developer, so the lift, the processing time and the final tone are what the shade chart promises. Using a different brand usually works, but results can shift slightly, so do a strand test first. If a manufacturer gives a specific developer for a line, such as Nouvelle Espressotime with its own 27 vol developer, always use that one.

How do I look after hair after a peroxide service?

Peroxide opens the cuticle and leaves the hair slightly alkaline. The right home care closes it back down and keeps colour from fading.

Wait 48 hours before the first wash so the colour can settle.
Use a colour-safe, sulphate-free shampoo and lukewarm water.
Mask once a week, especially after lightening.
Protect from heat and sun, which fade colour and dry out lightened hair.

*Dikson PROMASTER Argan Color Protective Mask 1000ml and SHAKEBAR Colour Protect Hair Serum 100ml.*

What are the most common peroxide mistakes?

Reaching for 40 vol to save time. It does not process faster; it just causes more damage.
Using 40 vol with bleach on the scalp. This is the biggest cause of scalp burns in salons.
Eyeballing the ratio. Too much developer dilutes the colour; too little stops it developing.
Using 10 vol to cover stubborn grey. It is usually too weak to open the cuticle; use 20 vol.
Keeping mixed colour for later. Once mixed, it must be used straight away.

How should I store peroxide?

Keep the cap closed tightly and store upright
Keep it cool and out of direct sunlight; heat weakens peroxide over time
Never pour unused developer back into the bottle
Keep it away from children and away from metal containers
Use it within the shelf life printed on the pack

Hair colour glossary

Term	Meaning
Developer / oxidant / peroxide	The hydrogen peroxide cream or liquid mixed with colour or bleach
Volume (vol)	Strength of the developer: 10, 20, 30 or 40 vol equals 3, 6, 9 or 12%
Level	How light or dark hair is, from 1 (black) to 10 (lightest blonde)
Tone	The colour you see within a level: ash, gold, copper, red and so on
Lift	How many levels lighter the hair goes
Deposit	Adding colour without lightening
Underlying pigment	The warm red, orange or yellow exposed as hair is lightened
Toner	A low-lift or deposit-only colour that neutralises unwanted warmth
Porosity	How readily hair absorbs product; porous hair grabs colour faster
Bond builder	An additive or system that protects hair structure during lightening

Frequently asked questions

What is the difference between 20 vol and 30 vol peroxide?

20 vol (6%) gives one to two levels of lift and is the standard for grey coverage. 30 vol (9%) gives two to three levels of lift and is used for lightening with tint or bleach off the scalp.

What volume peroxide do I use to cover grey hair?

Use 20 vol (6%) for most grey coverage. It opens the cuticle enough for the colour to grip resistant grey hair.

What developer should I use with toner?

Use 5 vol (1.5%) or 10 vol (3%), or the developer the toner brand specifies. Toning only needs to deposit colour, not lift.

Can I use 40 vol peroxide with bleach?

Only off the scalp, and even then 20 to 30 vol is safer. Never use 40 vol with bleach on the scalp.

Is 6% the same as 20 volume?

Yes. 3% is 10 vol, 6% is 20 vol, 9% is 30 vol and 12% is 40 vol. 1.5% is 5 vol.

What is the strongest peroxide I can buy for salon use?

40 vol (12%) is the strongest developer used for everyday salon colour. Anything stronger is not meant for standard colouring.

How long does peroxide last once opened?

Closed tightly and stored cool, an opened bottle normally lasts several months. Check the expiry on the pack, and never return mixed product to the bottle.

What is 27 vol developer?

27 vol (8%) is a specialist strength made for Nouvelle Espressotime fast-processing colour. Use it only with that system.

What does 1.9% developer do?

1.9% (about 6 vol) is a demi-permanent developer. It deposits and glosses with no real lift, for Color Touch and KADUS demi-permanent colour.

Does higher volume cover grey better?

No. 20 vol is the standard for grey coverage. Higher volumes add lift, which can leave grey looking brassy or see-through.

Can peroxide lighten hair on its own?

Barely, and unevenly. Developer needs to be mixed with tint or bleach to lift hair in a controlled way.

Why did my blonde turn brassy?

Lightening exposes warm underlying pigment. Tone with a violet or ash toner and 5 or 10 vol to neutralise yellow and orange.

Can I use hair peroxide for eyelash and brow tint?

No. Lash and brow tints need their own low-strength developer made for the eye area.

Where can I buy salon peroxide in South Africa?

Lime Light stocks Dikson, Exclusively Yours, Nouvelle, Toujours, Wella and KADUS peroxides online at limelighthb.co.za, with delivery nationwide, and at our showrooms.

Where to buy peroxide and developer in South Africa

Dikson OXY Cream Peroxide 20 Vol 6% 980ml

Lime Light Hair & Beauty Products is a professional hair and beauty wholesaler with showrooms in Gauteng, Durban and Cape Town. Salons, colourists and students can shop the full peroxide range online or visit a showroom for advice from our team.

Shop online: limelighthb.co.za, Hair > Colouring > Peroxides & Developers
Call us: 011 262 2451
Email: online@limelighthb.co.za

💡 Ask about our colour training

Not sure which developer suits your colour line? Our team and trainers can help you choose the right system for your salon.

#dikson #exclusively yours #nouvelle #toujours #hair colour #blonde hair #grey hair #brows and lashes

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